The last of the snow was going as I took a walk from home up towards Tal y Fan. I had hoped to get to the top in clear weather, but as I got closer the cloud came down. Instead of slogging up the slope to stand in the mist, I turned right along the Roman road towards Rowen, then cut down the footpath past Tyddyn Du towards Hafoty Gwyn.
There's something curious about this footpath. Even with the Ordnance Survey app on my phone, I lose my bearings every time. I can either walk with my eyes constantly on the screen, or take a bearing and check my position every now and then. Somehow, still, I always end up off the path. It's like the Bermuda Triangle of the local footpaths.
This day, at least, my path ended up taking me past some ancient features I hadn't seen before. This area of the slope is scattered with hut circles and platforms near the abandoned house of Tyddyn Du, showing, if not an absolute continuity, then a repetition of occupation that has died out for now in the recent century. Occupation seems to have lasted from the prehistoric right through to the mid twentieth century. (There is, in fact, an occupied farm not much further down the slope, but all buildings higher on this side of the Afon Ro are either ruined or used as holiday homes.)
On a day much warmer than the preceding ones, the snow was beginning to melt over the fields below Tyddyn Du.
For some reason I hadn't noticed this little ruin before, very close to Tyddyn Du (just visible to the right in this photo.) Perhaps this is because it's filled with growth, and in summer would be even more hidden by the leaves.
Coflein characterises the site as an undated circular enclosure which formed a homestead, all but obliterated by the construction of a 'modern' sheepfold on top. This site is at Ordnance Survey Grid Reference SH 7401 7161.
I can't presume to know more than those working for Coflein, since my background is mostly in literature and some history and a small amount of rather abstract archaeology. I would assume, though, that 'modern' is meant in the historical sense - the Early Modern period started around the time of Shakespeare, for context. Perhaps this fold is only few hundred years old or less, but not 'modern' in the sense that most lay people would read it. Today's sheepfolds are more often made of hurdles and corrugated iron.
Without the benefit of Coflein's analysis, I had wondered if this were a very small early dwelling, going only on instinct, not knowledge. It's just big enough to provide some shelter, and has a few little enclosures on the outside, as one sometimes sees around the ends of the more modern ruins. The enclosure had completely bypassed me. In the Coflein photo some of the contours of the enclosure seem to be visible. The site doesn't say whether it's prehistoric, or mediaeval. There are mediaeval hut platforms on these slopes, above the Roman road.
The west end of the enclosure, not much more than a tumble of stones.
In front of the enclosure there seemed to be a flat sweep of ground like that often found in front of farmhouses. This is probably the southern side of the circular enclosure, which apparently would have contained a number of huts.
At the back, north side of the enclosure is a little pen with an apparent entrance at the east end. The whole structure is built of quite large stones. Tyddyn Du can to seen to the left of the photo.
I'm not entirely sure of the angle of this photo. It's probably the east end of the north enclosure.
At the front, south-east corner of the fold the corner is built from three massive stones, directly on top of one another.
Seeing into the structure was very hard because of the low, gnarled bushes.
Inside the place seems to be mostly full of rubble.
Another view of the inside, at the western end.
The melting snow clearly shows the ridge of an eroded field boundary, stretching down the slope, roughly southwards, directly in front of the fold.
From a little way down the field boundary, this is the view of the ruined structure. I think it's possible to see the raised edge of the circular enclosure in front of it. The circle seems to be visible on aerial photos such as on Google Maps, as are the eroded field boundaries.
From further to the south-west, the bushes filling the fold blend in to the trees which surround Tyddyn Du.
A little way away, at SH 7390 7151, is what the Ordnance Survey map lists as a 'homestead.' This and subsequent features aren't mentioned on Coflein, and I can't find it elsewhere on the web. I would assume it was a prehistoric to mediaeval hut platform. Being terrible at estimating distances, I won't make a guess at its size, but the edge of the platform is quite visible in this photo, stretching from the wall on the right to the tree on the left. Possibly the more modern wall cuts across the platform.
Standing by the wall, the line of the outer edge of the platform is quite clear, free of snow. In the centre is a raised area.
Looking across the platform and the raised centre, towards the wall. The back edge of the platform can be seen as a line free of snow.
A view of the raised area in the centre of the platform.
Next I headed towards a cluster of hut circles not far below the homestead platform. On the Ordnance Survey map these are marked as 'hut circles.' Three are shown, along with two rectangular structures. The hut circles, though, are almost impossible to spot, even on the aerial photography. The whole place is just a jumble of stones, clumped grass, and rushes, and trying to photograph them would gain nothing, especially in the snow. It will be interesting to go back when the ground is clear to see if there are any signs, but I'm not hopeful.
This squarish structure at SH 7390 7140 is very, very similar to the earlier one which Coflein identifies as a sheepfold. It's not quite on the same alignment as the other structure, but on a similar one.
The front right corner of this structure is almost identical to the earlier one, with three very large stones one on top of the other. In the foreground in this photo is a large boulder in front of the structure, partly covered in snow.
A better view of the three large corner stones.
A lot of the walls have tumbled down.
The piece of wall is rather more intact than any in the other fold further up the slope.
More very large stones make up this front left corner.
This (roughly) western wall is an odd mixture, looking quite roughly built in one way, but most of the outward faces of the stones being very flat and neat. It's hard to tell how high it reaches under the ivy. I wouldn't expect a sheep fold wall to be much higher than the stones that are visible.
Rather like the other fold, at the back of this second square fold is a little enclosure, this time with a noticeably curved wall.
What looks like another little enclosure on the outside of the fold.
A small distance from this little enclosure is a rather bigger rectangular one with
much lower walls, perhaps two or three times as big as the other, presumably also a fold. Behind
this are the invisible hut circles. Struggling to get back onto the footpath (I still somehow ended up back and forth on either side of it) seemed much more sensible than trying to pick them out of the mess of rocks and grass and snow.
Really enjoyed reading this. I have also puzzled over the remains up there. You have motivated me to take another look.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I find it strange what Coflein does and doesn't list, although it's not the easiest site to navigate, so it's possible the remains are on there. I'd like to go back when there's no snow to see if I can see anything.
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